Icecream Heaven- Damascus

If you start to wander into the Souq al Hamidiyeh, actually even as you approach the entrance to this grand souq you will see people wandering along relishing luscious icecreams in a cone or in a bowl, all smothered in toasted pistasios.
Wandering further into the souq, you notice more happy lickers...first on the right you pass an icecreamery, almosrt empty, still people coming along laiden...hmmm? Further along another newer and flasher icecreamery on the left- completely empty...where could they be coming from?
This is Damascus, keep strolling and all will be revealed, almost to the end of the souq now a crowd is slowly, casually milling around a doorway. What could it be? Something of great charm by the feeling of the crowd, as you slide in closer, all is revealed, this is the souce of those ice confections.
I think the sign over the door said 1895, although I am not sure my eyes were on the action, peaceful, pleasant but quite unceasing. Fit and energetic young men scooping up icecreams into cones or bowls and dispensing them as fast as they could be delivered, in the heat here no time for waiting around. Further into the vast room, full of tables full of expectant customers where a whole contingent of fit young waiters, rushing [by Syrian standards, anyway] with huge trays laiden with icecream or the less often requested but equalling delicious milk puddings. I do take research very seriously, so have had to make several visits to be sure of the lay of the land here. Once you are ensconsed at your table you have time to catch a waiter's eye and make your order then look around, noticing you passed on your way a bank of what would seem to be huge mortars with energetic young men using the largest pestle I have ever seen, at least 3 or 4 feet tall, to pound the base ingredients for the icecreams.
Wonderful sight, I arrived yeaterday, spotting an empty table made a dive for, then took stock of the room- it was full of men and boys. In Morocco when I have invaded the men's preserve of the cafe there is usually a slight silence as they digest this incursion of the female sex, never any unwanted advances just a slight silence an indrawn breath as they digest the novelty of it.
Here there was no reaction, so I had not realised in my dive I was the sole female in sight...but of course it was not long after Friday prayers and the males of the family were enjoying this treat on their way home.
The next table had one gentleman sitting at it, waiting for his icecream whan 3 ladies all covered in black, faces open came in looked around and spotted this relatively empty table. Staight up to him they went, and quite directly he had his marching orders, there were a group a ladies and they did not want to share with men, but he could...so off he could go!
I caught one of the ladie's eye as she settled her mother and friend down and shared a lovely smirk, don't for one minute think that just because a lady wears head coveriengs and and great black tent she is in anyway diminished, no man could have stood up to her, in her firm and direct way!
Some other friends joined them and the overflow shared my table- we were all sisters after all; I learned they were from Iraq and making their way to Mecca on the Haj.
I experienced the same excitment from these ladies as I experince in India meeting people on pilgramige. An excitment to be on the road and a real appreciation of the specialness of the occasion. They are blessed [by which ever God] to be able to join this pilgramige, this holiday, this festival.
I travel a lot, lurk around airports going here or there...so many holiday makers, so many people going somewhere special, but often in the west they seem more jaded, more put upon with the experience rather than relishing it. Why is it so hard to be full of expectation and excitement for an adventure? What is it so hard about feeling gratitude for the opportuniy? Whether it is the Gods who brought it about or one's own hard work and good luck, a little feeling of thanks enhances the whole experience.
I learnt a lot from those ladies and really loved the inclusive smirk when Madam had sorted out the gentleman and moved him on, good manners on his part, especially as she was on Haj meant he needed to comply, but he decided to do so politey and gracefully.
Great experince, a little richness of my day and now off for the next one....
Thankful I am to be so lucky!!

Damascus

Still here and exploring and no pictures?
Praveen is slowing getting all the paper work done again!!! to join me in the next few days- Indian Burocrasy for you, love the place but do find the paper pushers a bit tiring....oh well life is full of taking the rough with the smooth, and as Praveen would say "it is the Indian way, my dear." I think even he might enjoy a bit of Australian cut and dry in this case.
So Damascus pretty good, in fact very enjoyable and relaxed.
It is warm to hot but the dry heat of a desert culture so not too swaety and as long as you cruise along you can go all day.
Cruising is the pace of life here, a gentle stroll even to cross the road, cars everywhere and you just wander out at a leisurley pace and everything seems to work fine. Glad I was trained in India though...as the pace is much more of a stroll than I am used to and if you go too fast it can confuse things.
I have learned when traveeling to look at what the locals are doing and imitate them- after all I am in their country....and it really helps to get along comfortably.
Yesterday I came aross the Azem Palace [I am travelling blind at the moment, all my travel notes and research are with Praveen- I do usually put them aside and wander anyway but I at least refresh my memory in the evening- still wandering blind is my tried and true way of finding the most interesting things!!]
Loved the Palace and especially appreciated the signage through out in Arabic [which for me is nearly non existant- I can recognise the name of Allah- so all is not lost...and I must admit it is starting to get me curious as to what all the rest says- I can decifer Hindi simply because I could not stand not knowing the sounds of the words...still in most cases I do not yet know what they mean but I do know what they sound like!!] and English- so kind of them.
My favourite piece of information was right in the front door, giving a pedigree of the Palace- here is a shortened version
Palace was built on the remains of the Golden Palace of Tangiz [1312 AD] who built his over the Green Palace of the first Umayyad Ruler of Damascus [680 AD] which restered on earlier Byzantine, Roman and Hellenistic ruins...wait for it...which were over Persian and Semitic Levels, no one is sure who was there before....
Damascus claims status as the oldest inhabitated city in the world....certainly has been around when ever anything was happrning in terms of history as taught in the west.
Pretty amazing and laid back place.
Friday today and everything is closed, Friday is the special day in the Muslim week and all try to go to mosque at 12.00 midday, beautiful calls to prayer through out the town, I am exploring the Christain Quarter as it does not follow this tradition ...
Just passed the old Roman Gate and the streets around it have all these enormous parts of pillars lining them, some type of sureal art composed of components of the past- what stories have they seen unfold? This is all set amongst the clutter of modern housing and at street level a rather swanky tourist shopping area.
Hope there are not too many typos, I can not reveiw this blog on the web as I don't access to it?Sanctions but from whom- I also don't have access to my paypal account which is to do with sanctions imposed by the west [paypal=USA] on Syria communications...looking for some one to ask more questions here but I think I need tact as I don't want to sound rude...
take care
Fiona

Damascus

Hmmm???
In Damascus, and not able to upload images....seems to be some restrictions on internet.
So I will have to use words instead and send pics later.
Arrived at 3.30am, rather groggy to be sorted out by very friendly and chirpy guys in uniform at the airport.
Friendliness has not stopped since.
No-one hassles you when you walk in the market or in the streets....shops and restaurants everyone is very pleaseant.
I am enjoying this.
Everywhere has it's colours, here the stone used foe building is a chalky white, and often offset with a creamy coloured stone and a soft charcol, all in all a rather dignifed and elegant arrangement.
There is similarities to Morocco [still in my etyes from a few weeks ago] but so far none of the over the top exuberance from the Moorish culture.
Makes sense, this is Syria so there is the same basic Muslim design principles - symetry, gardens, water features adapted to suit this area.
I found an old Mosque built by Suliman the Mganificent in 1554, noe undergoing renovation it is a harmonious blend of the various stone and just a small amount of mosaic over doorways- very elegant.
Absolutly exhausted yesterday, so did not do much as I am waiting for Praveen arrived [hiccup at Delhi ariport due to Indian officials' inefficency so he will be a day or two late- moan, moan.]
Took a leisurely evening stroll down to the souks of the Old City- it is warm here - a dry warmth, perfect for strolling and wandering around.
Many delights to see and lots of people watching- what a wonderful passtime in itself!
I am feeling rather chuffed, I spotted a shop that looked a bit different to many and went in, the owner was there, he is a dealer in textiles= oh yes , you meet many of them....often really only wanting to line their pocket. This man is different after ferriting around in his treaure chests he spoke at length on textiles: history and today in Syria...I am calling back today for lunch and perhaps we can plan a trip up the country to visit some of the last villages who specialise in Syrian tie and dye on silk.
Like wow!!
how lucky!!
what a lucky find...and I have not started on the leads Dijanne gave me!

off to meet a man about magic carpets and sumptuos syrian textiles

England coming to an end...

I have had a few lovely days R&R with my mates Anne and Steve amidst a very busy time teaching...lots of invites to teach again when I am in the country, which is very gratifying.
Anne and Steve are lovely, gentle souls with a really cheeky streak- so lots of giggles and laughs, and they always organize the most delightful mystery tours for me.
Their great eye for detail, sense of history and enthusiasm for places makes things seem magical, and as it is always a mystery where we are going I generally feel like a kid witha bubble of excitment in my belly- thanks Guys!!
We explored Leeds the other day, an old industrial city re-inventing itself in recent times with stunning modern architecture, re-vitalisation and an urban use for its canals and some fine museums.

The Royal Armory
was one port of call, as you can imagine they house the nations collection of arms- not usually my cup of tea but I did find the top floor fascinating, housing the oldest pieces in the collection and many of their oriental pieces...the detailing is what caught my eye, and lots of ideas for projects.

The assemblage of a japanese suit of armour suggested a way of assembling textile"postcards" for display....

this suit of armour is similar to ones used by the Saracens at the time of the Crusades and it is postualted that that is the entry path of quilting into Europe....one of the many things the returning Europens took back home with them.

The armour is made by quilting straw between fabric to create a flexible, protective garment, this one has lovely surface embroidery as well...

How to dress an elephant, wouldn't it be scary on a battle field?

Especially for the first foreigners to see one, when they had previously only been a creature of scary stories around the fire, perhaps real but you would tell yourself something that big must be a phantasy -until your saw one that is!!.

War and warfare does make sad- I could not face the lower floors where much of the dispaly is set up 'in action' so to speak- what a way to face the world,

I do like Gandhi's philosophy of non-violence seems a better way to approach problems.

I am so happy to be leaving, I am meeting Praveen in Damascus, and I do miss him now we are doing the old married couple thing of living in the same house, it is hard being away....but I have really enjoyed spending time with my friends here and the students I have taught...oh well life is all about change, and there is no use hanging onto the past, the future is there waiting to be stepped into.
Enjoy what and where you are NOW...is my moto.

Tantalising Textiles for Africa

Lucky enough to visit Magie and Bob of African Fabric Shop .
Peaking around their house is like walking through an Ode to Western Africa, not only a wonderful range of textiles etc, also people passionate about the place with an extensive knowledge of music and great library of refernece books and collection of photographs.

View on the walk into the local village from their place, cloudy but mild waether.

recylcing made gorgeous, Magie and Bob knows who makes their fabrics, how it is done and in most instances exactly where they live, I enjoyed being able to swap notes on why we support Fair Trade and the discernable differences it makes in the lives of the people we interact with.
and the decisions you make along the way....in India I try and buy Indian made, ideally I would like organic as well but prices become un-realistic....so I go for as locally sourced as I can....Magie had similar comments.

Mud cloth hmmm

Magie and Bob could talk about the 'pedigree' of each cloth

new, discharge cloths- so bold and dramatic

Beads, at their house you string beads in spare moments, good I thouught as all the lovely colours called to be touched.

A locally orchestrated project- women recycling plastic into these wonderful beads- looks good as a decorator item I thought.

Indigo and mud cloth- all hand loomed

strip weaving assembled into a pillow cover

Some of the luscious work produced by some of my students, I have been up and down the country working and blessed with some great groups.

meet my brother

this is my brother Steve, on his soap box!
Click the link to you tube, he was on TV.

Many More Moroccan Moaments

Our desert camp, Erg Chebbi, Sahara Desert

Location- superb, air fresh, no neighbours, no noise, all amenities comfortable and good matresses to sleep on!

Gnaoua Musicians

Pigeons du Sable are wonderful to visit.

markets are serious business

people watching in the medina over refreshing mint tea...

Calligraphy class

Ait ben Haddou, site of many a film set and our stars...

carpets- Morocco is the home of the magical carpet I am sure.

Berber is a very ancient language and used by a large percentage of the population, it is well suited to everyday rural life but has to be rather creative when describing things in the modern world.

on Berber bews programme a friend gave us these literal translations of some phrses they were useing.

A helcopter translates to "God' flying carpet"

the Shuutle as in space shuttle roughly translaters to "God's camel" - aren't they wonderful?

think of our tallest buildings- they are "sky scrapers" as a child I always wondered if there were sound effects would it be like chalk scraping on the blackboard?

carpets, carpets, carpets everywhere.

Birminghan, Yorkshire,

Just at this moment I have arrived at the home of Maggie and Bob of African Fabric Shop fame and am quietly amusing myself whilst they finish off this mornings orders...this is the first time I have visited their home so am sitting politely not poking my nose into things but I am also waiting internally impatiently for a promised guide tour through their amazing house which I can see is brimful of African things!!
We have been putting our heads together for a joint effort Safari to Ghana, as I was almost passing it was a prime opportunity to meet up and hang out some more.
In between reminising over my recent Safari I have been very busy in the UK, exploring and polishing details for future Safaris as well as teaching. Last week it was off to Birmingham to check on hotel locations, restaurants and other attractions for my forthcoming tour Textile Taster- Europe and UK . A rather wise old Bull near the Bullring, perhaps he is so perky because he has exscaped the ring? Birmingham is an interesting mix of fine old buildings and cutting edge modern- startling different and yet that seems to bring the best out in both styles, all of one style and it could be dreary.Birmingham is also home to a large Indian population and home to some fabulous restaurants, yum...

Found some of the signage amusing..



Bought an interesting book at Shared Earth- the autobiography of its founder, Jeremy Piercy.
He tells his story and a lot of the development of the Fair Trade movement, for me it just reinforces how powerful we are as consumers to change the world simply by choosing the sourse of the supplies we use. Good on you FAIR to all TRADE!!
An a Birmingham Landmark- The Flousie in the Jacuzzi. There is usually a fountain gurgling around this luscious lady and some enterprizing youth in the past added bubble bath so the city awoke one morning to fing her in a bubble bath!!

Work has taken me to my favourite end of England - the north, I feellike I can breath when I get further north, the country flattens out and big skies start to take over. I have been in Thirsk, just up the road from where James Herriot's Vet surgury was [Do you remember "All creatures great and small"?], and the lovely Sheila Smith who was looking after me treated me to a drive up through the country side, the greens of new leaf are gloriuos,

and old stone fences snaking across the land

and an abandoned Cistercine Monestary, Rievaulx

I am so exhilaratred vising places like this, only hints left to imagine the story of the place, built in 1132 it is still persmerising and gigantic!

a few hints f the original floor tiles, I want to work some pieces inspired by the colour and texture, look forward to getting back to my studio in Pushkar...

can you see the small white dot lower right near the big wall half way up the picture- that is a man...these arches soared overhead...imagine coming into there, dark from the outside light and the sense of magesty the structure would have commanded in one's heart.[and I guess the aim, by association God]

Tarifa, Spain to Fez, Morocco

A lovely journey to make, across the water is Africa. I love the feeling of expectation looking across the water and thinking there she is, and Tarifa is one magical spot to do that...and look at the colours the bluest of blue skies and sparkling waters.

The old tower on the promentary- how many pirates and raiders has it seen try and sneak up the Straights of Gilbralter, does the earth still have a memeory of the times long ago when the Pillars of Hercules must have been in the vicinity once?

In the village

We are in Morroco!! yippee, with the wide Atlantic behind,

I am there as well!

Now Fez , contemplating the labarynth of the Old Medina {market] we are about to go and start exploring.

A stop at the potters along the way, this pottery smells yummy because the likns are fired by olive pits.

Lunch at a local diner in the Medina, my lovely friend Hicham was there to guide us and choose a great lunch, one of the relishes was like an onion marmalade Moroccan style- would love the recipe.

Traffic in the Medina

The dye pits of Fez, no one wanted the chance of a days work there- go figure?

Checking out the mercandise!

the pouffets come with our stiffing- as we now know for certain!

Raw materials for Morocco's Catus Silk

Finished result, used all ready for the desert- who is that masked lady in an elegant pink?

In the silk shop- you choose the colour combinations to get a length of fabric woven for your djellabah, then the colours for the braid to be nmade and the toggles and tassles, then the tailor puts it all together- what a way to dress!