Chasing the Horizon

I realised my super power is crafting a good trip.

I don't like "trip of a life time titles"

Our trips are excellent but you have it in you to have wonderful....

Superb..... Exciting.....Wonderful adventures many times in your life.

They could be in the far reaches of the developing world, they could be having a damn good time with mate and going to the park.

We all have it in us to have the best day ever. Anywhere. Any day...

But I do think I can craft a very good experience to share those great days around.

There are so many amazing places to visit....

So many creative ways we can interact within our travels.

Fun Times are ahead.

The best things I found in Istanbul: cats and other surprises.

I've popped by Istanbul a few times over the years, stop overs as I was heading here or there....

The history surrounding the place, the Bosporus where east meets west.....the layers of civilizations, those walls that are still standing.

Reading Orhan Pamuk,  Elif Shafak , Richard Fidler all set off my curiosity and as I was passing again, I decided to stay a while.

What a pleasure.

It takes time to grasp some things you may have noticed in passing and after repeat exposure you realise it is a 'thing'.

Disclaimer - I am not a crazy cat person, generally - let me say BUT they think they own the town and you are welcome to visit. As long as the food is out and you don't block their sun!!

The cats.... they live in Istanbul, the people of the city look after them. Most houses have cat and/or dog bowls out the front to feed who ever wanders by hungry.

It is a crazy cat kind of town!

It was interesting this big fat, fluffy fellow was lying in the sun and a tourist came by and went to stroke him. The look on the cat's face. He owns the street he is not there to make friends with mere people! They're not domestic they are town cats. He raised his claws and warned the guy to back off, then went back to sleep. You could almost hear the cat saying "The nerve of that guy, disturbing me" 

The Museum of Innocence

I saw this on the map and just fitted in a visit as an indulgence for me- I love his writing. 

Wow it was not just a visit be a real EXPERIENCE. It left a lovely feel in my heart that still rings now as I think about it.

There is a story, based on real people, there is a lot to think about in the story itself but to then see the embodiment of the story, listen to someone talking on your headset makes it so much more personal.

Extraordinary as a concept, a novel, performance art , themes of love, loss, holding on to think about.

I'm gabbling a little- it is all still swirling in me- mind and heart.

A case for each chapter of the book

Istanbul is a wanderers delight. Walking and learning to use their fabulous public transport system is the way to get around- it also creates an intimate experience of everyday life, and the opportunity to see what is around the corner that you don't get on tourist oriented transport modes.

First lesson when we take guests will be how to get around using public transport and how to miss the hill climbs!

I would google where something was- it would be quite close and MRS GOOGLE would say "Mostly flat" how I came to dread those words- many of the mostly flat paths she suggested would give a Mountain Goat pause. The trick is to be heading downhill.... at the bottom of any hills you could find a tram or funicular railway that would take you back up again.

Thanks to Orhan, I knew what these houses were and felt nostalgic to find this suburb along the Bosporus where many of the beautiful classic wooden mansions of Istanbul have been renovated. He talks of them as memories from his youth and is saddened to see many disappearing.

Beautiful and I think somewhere our sketching groups will enjoy

I read of them described as Ottoman traditional Wooden mansions with Art Nouveau flourishes, sounds about right.

Streets are narrow so the angle is often tight when viewing.

Looking for some love- look at that wisteria creeping up the side- wouldn't it have been spectacular a few weeks ago?

Check out my Instagram or Facebook back in June, there are some many great impressions.

The balloons of Cappadocia were are really uplifting experience- haha- get it?

and simple things like wandering the back streets so interesting..... once I had coped with Mrs Google's mostly flat 😜

Working class Balat- often photographed- another great area to wander

lots of cafes, second hand shops and interesting streets to poke around.

These are just some of the more local things- all those must see sites are spectacular but there are so many layers to explore.

Also found a great flew market- old treasures but a distinctly different twist to what you might find in other countries.

these canisters? Document files? had me quite baffled, they are quite heavy, it was only when a gentleman explained it that I could see what they are.

They open up and a handle comes out from inside and in goes coffee beans to grind your coffee fresh for Turkish Coffee! 

Never seen one of those before. 

A delight of travelling- there is always something new.

Looking forward to heading back to Istanbul next year- it will be a great source of inspiration to us on a Creative Textile Adventure and the scene for a wonderful Travel Sketching jaunt.

Check our Calendar to join the fun. 

Romanian Experience

Our tour to Romania was great, after such a long delay between initial walk through and our first trip [thank you covid] I was a touch nervous about how it would all go.

Well fantastic is the word I would use.

We received such a warm welcome and it is just so beautiful you feel like you are in an enchanted story.

Roses, deep vibrant red roses and poppies bloom everywhere.

Meet Anca, we have been chatting via the ethers for ages- it was such a delight to meet up, hang out, take a road trip to search up a few leads before the tour AND plan for her to work with us in the future.

The shade of green of European forests and trees is so vivid to Australian eyes used to the olive tones of Australia,  I left me wanting to just gaze at the trees. I am sure the Japanese have a name for soaking up the peace of the forest. Translates to forest bathing? Perhaps I just am drunk on green and prone to flights of fantasy.

Schiller Square in Sibiu. Sibiu is famous for its Eyes- they watch you everywhere.... the Old Town is quite small and gorgeous to wander, it feels like every corner brings up something new and charming.

Linden or European Lime Trees were in blossom everywhere- such a sweet perfume to enhance our travels. Look at that photo- I took it and it looks magical to my eye. Locals were collecting the flowers to make tea.

The honey produced from these flowers is the most prized one in Romania.

2019 was my walk through, I met a social group in Bucharest who met weekly to stitch Romanian blouses. What I didn't know about was the effort going into getting the Romanian Blouse inscribed on the World Heritage List.

The success of that in 2022 has really buoyed local enthusiasm. 

I saw many more women in traditional blouses than last time. Many younger people are stitching themselves one.

We spent time sitting in a garden, working on a sample. Trying it yourself , really builds your appreciation of the time and effort that goes into that embroidery.

Anca, our teacher was patients and encouraging- dressed in one outfit from her collection of traditional costumes gave a great chance to look closely and take photos when we were distracted from stitching- haha. It was a fun day.

Look at the fine embroidery on her sleeves!

Driving along a country road we met two delightful girls heading to a school event. Our driver Sorin, asked if they world mind if we flocked around them to admire the outfits.

They were happy and all smiles to let us photograph them and they told us they had stitched everything themselves,  Grandma had helped with direction but it was all their work.  Wonderful. 

So many thing we came across that felt magical.

Check out this Monastery that Anca and I came across on our Road Trip- perfect for a lunch break and sketch for our Travel Sketching Romania Tour with Susan Yeates next year.

 

I must admit it is not hard to find a beautiful painted Romanian Orthodox Church, but this one was quite a beauty. Loved the wild devils near the front door.

Other treats were fairy tale type castles

On our road trip we met Christine, her business is the last business raising silk worms and producing silk veils and blouses in Romania.

 We turned up unannounced and she kindly showed us everything and then was a wonderful host to my group. Special.

Have you ever read "The Darling Buds of May" by HE Bates- all about bucolic bliss.... summertime in Romania has that type of feel.

We joined the Shepherds in Maramures for dinner one evening- I can't imagine anything more delightful.

the sun was golden, the fields green, only men milk so we watched. 

then we sat under a plum tree and feasted. Freshly made cheese, bread, salad followed by a Shepherd's stew, local wine and home made afinata- alcohol flavoured with mountain picked blueberries.

Glorious!

I am rambling here, this is just a small story about a place I truly look forward to exploring further.

I have a few new inclusions for next year and am just putting the finishing touches of Romanian Ramble 2025.

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I must admit COVID really knocked me around, I wondered if I would lead tours again and I am so glad I persisted. This year and last year has been fantastic.

So many places to experience, people to meet, creative ideas to explore.

Uzbekistan tour & travels

I like to reflect on a tour when I return, all that I thought worked well, and flag any tweaks.

In April it was our Uzbekistan Textile & Culture Tour.

I have been sssooooo busy [yes I am bragging and yes!! I have a big smile on my face 😁] that although I started this months ago, this is the first moment I had to add pictures and polish it up.

We toured Uzbekistan as we meandered along the Old Silk Road.

I loved the place so much when I did the walk through last year ... then the moment of truth when you bring guests.

And boy! was I happy.

Another brag- Creative Arts Safaris has the best adventurous souls to travel with - we are so lucky they choose to come with us and have fun.

From the moment I arrived in Uzbekistan, logistics were seamless, thanks to my trusty travel co-ordinator. 

Transport arrangements, including flights and trains, were punctual and comfortable, making it easy to get around. The local guides I linked up with were exceptional, offering insightful commentary and great translations so they we felt we were talking directly with our hosts. Lot of laughs and fun as were learnt about the culture.

Due to a funeral Altaney asked we visit her on the day we arrived in Nukus, she had put a lot of effort into a felt making workshop for us and working out what a vegetarian meal really was. 

Uzbeks are huge on hospitality and feeding people- she was inviting us into her home and had every intention of feasting us- then I said 4 vegetarians in the crowd- for weeks messages flew back and forth- no meat? like No meat? not even chicken- she was scratching her head- so where is the meal with no meat? Rahmat our guide in the Fergana Valley had a similar conversation with me- so funny.

We had feast none the less and everyone enjoyed themselves.

Back to Altaney- she had the whole day planned but we arrived late because of the change around- she really wanted to get started with the workshop- that vegetarian lunch was cooking but COULD NOT start until she had offered us tea and treats. Throughout her beautiful welcome I could see her desire to make sure we fit everything into her programme. What a wonderful experience.

Altaney lives out past Nukus, her forebears were Turkmen origin and she is a felt maker extraordinaire. Many of her family were/are farmers. It is hard to call- the shrinking of the Aral Sea to become the Aral Desert means the salt rises and good farmland has to be abandoned. She sells her felt products in Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan and her grandsons are joining her to learn the craft.

I wonder what other people in the area do when they can't farm anymore and don't have her entrepreneurial spirit to create a new source of income? Drift away from the homelands I guess- so sad.

To me Nukus and the warm welcomes we received, the feeling of being a long way, away from anywhere really capture The Silk Road and Uzbekistan.

There are few who make the effort to get out there and yet the place is so wonderful.

The Savitsky Museum is a Treasure Trove of Art. Nukus is renowned for the Igor Savitsky Museum, a cultural oasis in the heart of the desert. The museum looks a simple enough building, but stepping inside your jaw drops.

There is an extraordinary collection of avant-garde Russian and Uzbek art. The museum houses over 80,000 pieces, including works that were once considered controversial during the Soviet era,  Stavisky's vision to preserve these artworks, often suppressed elsewhere, offers a fascinating glimpse into a lesser-known chapter of art history- what an extraordinary feat- your eyes and heart will for ever be grateful to feast upon them.

Yep- the place leaves a big impression on me.

Icing on the cake was a performance by the Karakalpakstan Puppet Theatre in the forecourt of the museum.

Time with Gulnara, who not only showed us how to stitch Karakalpak embroidery but brought her very she appreciative to model a Karakalpak wedding outfit. There are always tea and treats where ever you visit.

Fergana Valley and silk, silk and more silk.

the time consuming task of weaving a silk carpet.

Early morning train- comfortable and with endless tea supplied takes you to the valley. It is nestled amidst the majestic Tian Shan mountains, and the cradle of silk production: a cultural heritage that spans millennia. Also the birth place of Babur who was the first of India's Moghul Empowers.

Ceramics and silks and fruit and vegetable production this fertile valley is a hive of activity.

Hand woven Silk Velvet is a cloth of wonder 😘

and then , and then there are the big 3- Khiva, Bukhara and Samarkand- just beautiful. Well restored and easy to wander around, they are a delight.

I think Bukhara is my favourite, I like the local market, the variety of workshops and the easy pedestrian access. Next year this will be the place for a rest and explore day- there is a Hamman to check out and a moment to catch your breath, say pinch me- I am really here type thing.

I had included a visit to a yurt out on Adyar Lake but although beautiful it really was too far out to offer a restful time. Staying an extra night in Bukhara will be great. 

Travelling you want to pack in as much as you can but if you don't stop and draw breath it can become a a sensory overload. I do like to keep an eye on this .... it is hard because for all we get to do, I have a backup list of "Wish I had to time to squeeze that in too" list.

The little everyone knows about Uzbekistan centres around the remarkable buildings- and they truly are amazing.

This is the gate to Tamerlane's old Summer Palace- it is only 3/4 of its original height- can you see the people standing at its base? 

Anyone who travels with me knows I put thought into when is the best time to visit a place- often the best advice is to be there as it opens- most tourists are sleepy heads and you will get it mostly to yourself.

It pays off- the remarkable Shah-i- Zinda of Samarkand was all ours

I have so many lovely images- look back through Facebook or Instagram. Eye candy if I do say so myself.

I keep using words like feast and delicious- I suppose because the pleasure of travels is a full sensory thing.

Look at the most beloved meal of Uzbekistan- Osh or Plov- it really is delicious

All the sides that go with a wonderful Osh Lunch- never dinner!

Uzbekistan was a true delight and I look forward to our my next jaunt- you are welcome to share it with us.

 Sometimes an opportunity pops up- it might seem a bit suspicious- but give it a go I say.

My mate Megan and I were leaving the Ulugbek Madrassa in Samarkand when a guy opened what looked to be a broom cupboard and asked us if we wanted to climb to the top of the Minaret- Strange? yes ! but we jumped at the opportunity, giggling like naughty school girls as we climbed the narrow twisting staircase and popped our head out of the little hole at the top

AMAZING- grab every opportunity life offers, I say 😁

Of course I have his number on speed dial if you want to give it a go.