Rajasthan

20 years ago I headed to Rajasthan. Story in previous blog.

I must admit it was rather spur of the moment and I did not really know where I was going, I was just going.

Boy, best decision ever. 

I was stunned at the just about everything. Amber, Jodhpur, Udaipur Palaces and Forts- so amazingly beautiful.

The crafts- ohh wow. Friendly people, who were happy to take you into their workshop and show you around... explain a lot but not give out any exact recipes -I noticed.

This tour has always been a long one 19 days, there is so much to see. Usually 2 weeks is a good time for a tour but Rajasthan needs more.

India is amazing but also an assault on the senses, it takes people a few days or so to acclimatize- it is so busy but you cope by going Indian time which is quite relaxed.  Guests jump off their plane and are still running.... I see them draw a big breath, shrug and sink into India around day 4 or 5.

Then the cruising and enjoying can really unfold.

Early on, I remember a guest asking a driver "So how long will it take to get to X?" and a look of horror on his face. 

Indian people don't look at time like it is an accurate thing. He wanted to answer her, but how could you know how long? the road might be blocked or dug up for road works, there could be pilgrims along the way holding up traffic, an elephant passing.

How would you know how long, you just know you start out and eventually you get there....

The current incarnation of this adventure starts as I always start.

Delhi and a visit to the Gods- The Birla Temple is gorgeous, then Raj Ghat to pay our respects to Gandhi. 

It is good to tell his story and to see the many, many local visitors to his memorial- he is such a presence in India's history.

We then head to Akshardham Temple. Why, you might ask? Well it is beautiful but also amazing. 

India is largely made by hand, it took me years of saying this to myself to get the magnitude of that statement.

My guests don't have years but here is something to help you grasp it. Huge, beautiful, all handwork and largely built by volunteers- it blows your mind and sets your towards grasping something amazing about India. They also have a good canteen and great lunches- Indians like their food.

Craft Museum in the afternoon- again too much to take in on one visits but sets the scene for the breadth of Indian Crafts and wonderful eye candy.

Annnnnndddddddd then we take the show on the road.

The Shekawati region is in the semi-arid north of Rajasthan, poor country and poor villagers and yet between the 1700 to 1900's the merchants of the area accrued immense wealth. 

The overland trade routes went through the area, Marwari [ Marwari is the local language group] traders spread across India. Some of India's wealthiest families trace their roots back to this region.

In the 17th to 19th centuries, Marwari merchants constructed grand havelis in the Shekhawati region. Steeped with wealth and affluence, the merchants attempted to outdo others by building more grand edifices – homes, temples, and step wells which both inside and outside were richly decorated with painted murals. Sleepy towns all covered in beautiful murals...

Onto Jodhpur- what a Fort perched way up high, took my breath away first time I visited and I still appreciate it today. The Maharaja of Jodhpur continues to improve the Palace, their museum is wonderful and they have new exhibitions regularly. 

Lunch with a family of rug weavers. We have been visiting Usman for years and was running late one year, so rang to say we had to stop for lunch and might not have time to call in. He invited us for lunch [ all 12 of us] and we have been lunching with them ever since. I don't know what the women of the family had to say that first visit but lunch was ready when we arrived and many smiles. Country meal of millet chapati, veg and dal- a home cooked treat.

Onto a few days at Pushkar- an easy market to explore, although I do have to warn people to be careful of the Special Lassi- being a Holy Town they are allowed to make it with Bhang [marijuana] and you will be in a spin.

Visits to our workshop- block printing- blocks carved to your design to take home- camels- gypsy dancers and dinner.

We have been known to play dress-ups. The women of the workshop love the opportunity to help guests try out saris. Very kind of our guests to boost our women's confidence chatting and hanging out. 

Fire eater at dinner at home.

Then onto Udaipur. A beautiful place nestled between two lakes and with a grand palace.

You never know who you might meet along the way.... we were heading off the track to a small village we love to see indigo and this guy was passing on his bullock cart. We stopped and asked if we might take a picture and he thought it was a fantastic idea. He was so welcoming of our guests heading way out to his corner of the world. He insisted I take his number and ring him next time we are passing- see how we go 😊Wonderful man.

Bundi is another sleepy little town that once must have been rich, it has so many beautiful Stepwells dotted around. 

Stone Age tools dating from 5,000 to 200,000 years were found in Bundi and the town traces its origins to the Chauhans 11 century- the last great Hindi kingdom before waves of Muslim invades came along. 

The Fort Palace has very beautiful murals, hard to visit because the access road is so steep and rocky. We will visit stepwells but don't have time to scale up to the fort- we are heading to Ranthambore and looking for tigers.

Stitching with the women of Dastkar Ranthambore as well- they love to sing, perhaps dance and gossip. Praveen is pretty good at translating when we need a little help, but a willing heart is the most important thing when you want to connect up.

The big smoke of Jaipur- so many things to see and do. 

I love the drying unit- lots of cloth drying- sounds boring but being in there amongst it- it becomes and amazing world.

Escher-ing it at another stepwell

I love throwing everyone into rickshaws to visit the gold work embroidery guys..... it just makes it feel like the most thrilling adventure to arrive this way and head deep into the bowels of the Old City of Agra- the wealth and splendour in their workshop has to be seen to be believed.

We were there one year when 4 moths work of a jewel encrusted Tapestry was being cut from the strainers- the whole workshop stops and welcomes it to life.

A bit of Taj Mahal action and back to Delhi.....

I particularly love these stories to help imagine the Taj Mahal and the people of the era. People who would have used the skills of our goldwork friends to embellish their clothes.

Hmmm I have been writing up tours for 2024. I like to go through and consider every step along the way- see if I still love it.

There are a million good stories and references to get you in the mood for India. India boasts some very fine contemporary writers- they are a treat to discover.

I was once told "Madam, anything is possible" and I do believe it might be true.

This part of India is full of the majesty of the past and the innovation and artisan excellence that will last into the future.